Michigan’s Upper Peninsula: a 9-Day Camping Itinerary

August 11, 2024

Michigan’s Upper Peninsula is a special place to many. If you’re a Michigander, you already know what I’m talking about. If you're not, and you're reading to learn more, then you’ve come to the right place. Local or not, maybe you’ve caught word by now of the natural beauty found far north from the masses. Four hours north from bustling Detroit city and across the world-famous “Mighty Mac” Mackinac Bridge, you’ll find what some call 'Michigan’s better half'! The U.P., an acronym formed from its full name ‘Upper Peninsula’, is known for its rugged recreation, forested landscapes and a variety of large predator animals. Although truly one week is not enough to cover all that the Upper Peninsula has to offer, it is certainly enough for a jam-packed Tour da Yoop camping trip!

Throughout my childhood, I went to the U.P. and stayed at my uncle Mike’s cabin. I once remember looking out down the path on the edge of the yard that led into the woods and seeing a mother bear and her two cubs. I remember another time my uncle took us somewhere along the Lake Superior shoreline and told us just how big the lake is; it was impossible to grasp then and honestly still is. There were sometimes trips with eight of us cousins and there were always so many memories made exploring spots like Oswald’s Bear Ranch and Castle Rock. 

In 2019, I had my first summer break after my first year of teaching, and I was desperate for a reset. I knew just what I needed, and I planned a trip to the U.P. with my brother and best friend. We went the first week we were able, and so the trip happened in early June, making for cooler temperatures but still plenty of mosquitoes. This trip took me to the most northern point I've ever been to in the entire country and state, Copper Harbor and to the westernmost portions of the state near the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park. Moving by tent and car, far and fast, it felt like we were seeing so much of Michigan we hadn’t seen before. 

In the fall of 2023, my partner and I spent three weeks in the U.P. exploring mainly Munising, Marquette, Manistique, and Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Since then, we have traveled nearly 4,000 miles and spent time in four additional states as we slow travel in our RV, but the vast U.P. keeps our minds and hearts racing back to the possibilities of beauty that lie in our own home state of Michigan. 

Tips for a smooth and pleasant Upper Peninsula tent trip:

1. Check Bridge Conditions:

Before crossing the Mackinac Bridge, always check the bridge conditions online. This is especially important if you are towing an RV because winds can be strong while driving on the bridge. The Mackinac Bridge is an engineering marvel and is currently the seventh-longest suspension bridge in the world by total suspended length, and the longest suspension bridge in the Western Hemisphere. It spans 4.995 miles long or 8.038 km. The toll for passenger cars is $2/axel or $4/car. Drivers can pay with cash, credit/debit cards, Apple Pay, or Google Pay at the toll booth. 

2. Bring Bug Spray:

Bugs are active in the U.P. There are a few bugs to worry about more than others: mosquitoes, ticks, and biting black and stable flies. Before going on a week-long outdoor trip to the U.P., it may be helpful to treat your outdoor gear and clothes with permethrin. Apply the product to gear and allow it to dry, and and you’ll be much more protected when exploring the U.P. Using a product that contains over than 20% DEET is an effective way to keep bugs away. We also love lemongrass products to mask the smell of other sprays and as a more natural repellent. Mosquitoes and ticks are known to carry various diseases, and in general, the bugs you may encounter can make your time in the U.P. less enjoyable if you are not prepared to deal with them. Below is a collection of linked products we use to keep the bugs away!

3. Bring Bear Spray:

According to Bridge Michigan news, the black bear population in the U.P. in 2024 has reached over 10,000 individuals and is booming. There are an estimated 600 wolves in the U.P. according to MLive as of late 2023. I would personally want that extra protection, especially while hiking. Following this note, it is important to always lock food in bear boxes or in your car overnight while camping in the U.P.

4. Bring Cash: 

Some overnight locations are first-come, first-served rustic state campgrounds that require you to pay via a collection box. Since some locations in the U.P. have poor phone service, you may want to pay with a card at a local shop, but their chip reader could be down. Cash is helpful to have on hand for these situations.

5. Buy A State Recreation Passport To Save Money:

The state Recreation Passport gives year-round vehicle access to over 100 state parks and recreation areas, more than 1,000 state-managed boating access sites, over 140 state forest campgrounds, and parking at thousands of miles of trails and other outdoor spaces. Michigan residents can purchase a State Recreation Passport for just $14 annually when renewing their car registration. When you purchase the pass upon renewing your registration, a ‘P’ is printed on your vehicle's registration and license plate sticker. Now, when you drive to a state park, you tell the ranger at the gate that you have a state park pass on your plate, and they check as you drive by—it's that simple! Non-residents can purchase a Recreation Passport online for $40; otherwise, entry at state park gates costs $11 per day.

6. Be Sure To Always Have Enough Fuel And Camp Food:

When traveling in remote places such as the U.P., you may not always be able to find what you need within a 20-minute drive. For example, when camping in the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, you won’t be able to go out to eat someplace before settling back into camp; you’ll have to pack in and pack out all your own food. It’s better to have enough supplies!

7. Satellite Device For Safety:

We carry the Garmin inReach Mini in case of medical emergencies when on the trail or camping. When in the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, I did not have cell service. This is an expensive piece of tech but a useful one to have!

About This Itinerary:

I have planned this route for those looking to explore the U.P. mainly by tent and car. This route can be modified for RVers needing other accommodations. Each day is filled with suggestions for the area, city, or park. You will not be able to do everything listed. It is up to you to pick and choose which activity fits your schedule, pace, and interests. This itinerary is planned for someone who has two weekends and five weekdays free. If you do not have as long, modify the route as needed to fit your adventure! Each nightly overnight suggestion is a place I have stayed except nights 2 and 3, when I suggest a state forest campground similar to the other state first-come, first-served campgrounds suggested. State Forest campgrounds are the way to go if you’re planning this trip on a whim and are open to rustic settings. 

Day 1

→ Drive to Tahquamenon Falls State Park

• Hike upper and lower falls trails

Night 1: Kingston Lake State Forest Campground

• Sites available on a first-come, first-serve basis. No reservations

• 16 sites suitable for tents or small campers

Day 2 

→ Drive to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

• Check out the Miner’s Castle viewpoints

• Walk along Sand Point Beach

• Take the short hike to Munising Falls

• If time allows, my favorite hike is Chapel Beach Loop

→ Drive to Munising, MI

• Stop by Miner’s Pasty and get a pasty to go!

• Eat your pasty at a bench at Binsfeld Bayshore Park and Bayshore Marina

• Mondays from 4pm to 7pm is the Munising Farmers’ Market also at Bayshore Park

• Book a Pictured Rocks Cruise for $52/adult & $14/child; cruises leave from next door to Bayshore Park

• Book a kayaking tour of Pictured Rocks! Prices range from $99 to $169

• Pictured Rocks Pizza for dinner is another option

Night 2 and 3: Little Lake State Forest Campground

• NOTE: Stop by Au Train Grocery for a very good pasty

• Sites available on a first-come, first-serve basis. No reservations

• 16 sites suitable for tents or small campers

OR book ahead at one of the various campgrounds nearby

Day 3 

→ Drive 30 minutes to Marquette, MI

• We parked in a parking garage off of Bluff Street for easy access to town

• Do some shopping downtown

• Lunch at The Vierling Restaurant & Marquette Harbor Brewery

• Visit Donckers chocolate and caramel shop for a sweet treat

• Walk along the water near the Marquette Yacht Club and in Ellwood A Mattson Lower Harbor Park to view the Lower Harbor Ore Dock

• Stop by Clark Lambros Beach Park for a view of the Upper Harbor Ore Dock

• Visit Presque Isle and jump from the Black Rocks

• Hike Sugarloaf Mountain or Hogback Mountain for the best views

• Dinner at Lagniappe Cajun Creole Eatery (we ate at the park)

Night 3: Head back to camp at Little Lake State Forest Campground

Day 4 

→Drive 3.5 hours to Copper Harbor, MI 

• Stop for coffee/breakfast in Houghton or Hancock

• Make a detour towards Gay, MI for a pudding shot at the Gay Bar

• From Gay, drive the coast up for more sightseeing, otherwise head back towards Highway 41

Night 4: Lake Fanny Hooe Resort and Campground

• Book ahead

• Awesome location

• RV sites + tent sites of various needs/sizes

Day 5 

→ Enjoy Copper Harbor

• Horseshoe Bay Beach

  • 4WD/high clearance recommended 

• Learn about the MI copper industry and Lake Superior's role at Fort Wilkins Historic State Park

• Visit Hunter's Point Park for beautiful beaches

• Drive up Brockway Mountain Drive

→ Drive 1 hour to Hancock, MI

• Drive Highway 26

• Stop at the Eagle Harbour Lighthouse 

• Stop at Jacobs Falls

• Walk in Calumet, MI

• Lunch or coffee at Cafe Rosetta

Night 5: Hancock Recreation Area

• Book ahead (we showed up & there was an open site)

• 72 campsites - 58 for RVs with 50 AMP ($25-$30/night) and 14 tent sites ($15/night).

Day 6 

→ Drive 2 hours to Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park

• Stop for breakfast in Houghton or Hancock

• Be sure to have all supplies/food ready for the Porkies!

• Go to the Lake Superior lakefront/shore at camp

• Sunset at Lake of the Clouds

Night 6 and 7: Presque Isle Campground

• You’ll want to spend 2 nights here if possible

• Book ahead

• Tent only - amazing for tent campers!! RVers head to Union Bay!

• Beautiful trails and waterfalls nearby, plus its right on Lake Superior

Day 7 

→ Enjoy the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park

Hike options:

• Summit Peak Observation Tower - .9 miles

  • If you don’t decide to do the 5 mile loop below, definitely make it to this observation tower and highest point in the park!

• Presque Isle River Waterfalls trail that starts near camp - 1.9 miles

  • Easy, close to camp for a morning hike

• Government Overlook Loop - 3.4 miles 

  • It is recommended to hike counter-clockwise to a bench at the summit viewpoint

• Beaver Creek, Little Carp River, Summit Peak, and South Mirror Lake Loop - 5 miles

  • A little bit of everything, including boardwalks through wetlands and the Summit Peak observation tower

• Escarpment Trail - 8.4 miles

  • A challenging route featuring stunning views with lots of inclines/decline along the hike

Day 8 

→ Drive 3 hours 15 minutes to Escanaba

• Stop at Bond Falls

• Get pasties in Escanaba at Dobber’s Pasties or Gram’s Pasties

• Visit Sand Island Beach

• Take your kids to the wood playground structure at Ludington Park

Night 8: Portage Bay State Campground

• Sites available on a first-come, first-serve basis. No reservations.

• 23 sites suitable for tents or small campers

• Rough road for many miles out to the campground

• Stunning water/beach access

Day 9 

→ Drive to Manistique on your way home

• Spend an hour at Palms Book State Park riding over Kitch-iti-kipi Spring

• Then head to Jack’s Fresh Market for your pasty fix! Here they have classic beef and specials that change daily

• Eat your pasty at the Manistique Town Beach

• Walk all the way to the Manistique East Breakwater Lighthouse

Does this cover it all? Not even close! However this itinerary is a simple route for those looking to explore north of the bridge for the first time or those seeking suggestions for new areas to visit! Although the U.P. is still a hidden gem to many, it has offered generations of Michiganders a place to retreat, hunt, and recreate. After even a weekend in the U.P., it is easy to see what all the hype is about. After our three-week fall trip recently, it was all too easy to envision ourselves here for longer, living among the pines, forest friends, and mosquitoes. 

On your trip to the Upper Peninsula, don’t forget to lend a hand and take care of the land! Leave campsites and trails better than you found them by packing out what you pack in. Be sure to drown campfires in water to protect Michigan forests. Enjoy the stunning natural beauty of Michigan’s U.P. and take care of the land as you do so. There is so much to protect and preserve! 

What’s your favorite U.P. spot? Have a place to share that I missed? Leave me a comment below!